A few of my favorite things to eat in Florence
2. Tagliere (Charcuterie Board) with warm coccoli (fried salted dough balls in olive oil) at La Beppa Fioraia (Via dell' Erta Canina, #6/R). Located below the Piazza Michelangelo, most tourists miss this great spot and it tends to be locals only. It has a great atmosphere with trees inside the restaurant (and twinkle lights!) and a large outdoor dining area. They don't speak much English but you can ask for a menu in English. But you don't need a menu, just order the tagliere and coccoli! Available in different sizes, I still dream about these charcuterie boards! It comes with coccoli and you can order more if needed which is made to order and comes out warm. Coccoli is a fried salted bread and usually comes stuffed with cheese and meat which is a regional traditional Tuscan dish. They literally melt in your mouth but you will have to restrain yourself. The last time I dined there I ate wayyy too many and to lay down when we returned to our home. When you receive the check, you take it to the front register to pay so don't waste time waiting for the waitress to come back and take it. I recommend taking a cab up to the Piazza Michelangelo, walk down to La Beppa Fioraia, dine; then walk back to Florence to work off the coccoli! https://www.beppafioraia.it/
3. Any sandwich at I Due Fratellini (Via dei Cimatori, #38/R). I Due Fratellini is literally a hole in the wall. Built into the side of a building, it is walk-up service only with a menu in English and Italian. If you are short on time and can't spare an hour to eat, this is a great grab and go option. It is run by two brothers, hence the name. For less than 5 Euro, you can get a sandwich and a glass of wine. The bread is made fresh every day and when they run out of bread, they close for the day so try to go early! Located across from San Orsanmichele church and close to the Piazza Della Signoria, there is no seating but it's fun to join the rest of their customers al fresco, sitting on the curb of the sidewalk enjoying a glass of wine. With a selection of over 20 different sandwiches, all come out on warm bread and my favorite is the sun-dried tomato and goat cheese! Just make sure you eat it right away so the bread doesn't get too stiff. It is best enjoyed warm and if you wait to maybe take it back to your hotel to eat, you will regret it. Filling, cheap and good, it's a must for the experience alone! http://www.iduefratellini.it
4. Fig gelato at Gelateria La Carraia (Piazza Nazario Sauro #25). Open since 1990 and located across the Arno, it is worth the short walk across the Ponte Alla Carraia. I've tried my fair share of gelato across Florence and while I prefer the old world atmosphere of Vivoli or Perche No, Gelateria La Carraia is hands down my favorite gelato in town! Their flavors are undeniable, so vibrant and the texture is perfect. My ultimate favorite flavor is Fig. It's so good I can't even describe it; it's like candy flowers bursting in my mouth which doesn't even do it justice! Orange chocolate is another good choice, but they truly have anything you could want. Try something you normally wouldn't order, I'm sure you will be pleasantly surprised! Then walk back over the bridge to start working off the calories. That's the key, walk far to get the gelato and then walk back so you won't feel bad about indulging and you can see great side streets that you may not have seen before. http:www.lacarraiagroup.eu/
5. Truffle Fillet at La Giostra (Borgo Pinti #12/R-18/R). This was a special dish that I believe is seasonal so it will only be available in the fall during truffle season that I enjoyed on my last visit in October. It was truly the best thing I have ever eaten in my entire life. Even if you do not like mushrooms, please try this. I hate mushrooms but I love truffles (for some reason) and they literally melt in your mouth like butter on this fillet. I also had the truffle ravioli which was equally as wonderful. Greeted upon arrival with a free glass of prosecco, La Giostra had my heart from the start! The atmosphere at La Giostra is dreamy, filled with twinkly lights, soft lighting from candles on each table, and the faint sound of American 1960's rock n roll playing in the background, it matched my personality well. You will need a reservation in advance and you may even run into a celebrity or two as the walls are adorned with photos of anyone you have ever heard of dining there. https://www.ristorantelagiostra.com
6. Orange and Raspberry Meringue Cake at Trattoria Stostanza (Via del Porcellana, #25/R) Trattoria Stostanza is located in the Santa Maria Novella neighborhood and reservations are absolutely necessary. They serve only at two set times per night, 7:30 pm and 9 pm; is cash only and is family-style seating so you will get to know those next to you pretty quickly! Known for their brown butter chicken, they offer mostly meat options but everything on the menu is good traditional food and it is always filled with locals. Since they are only open Monday-Friday (no weekends) it tends to be more locals than tourists. I tried the famous chicken and it's just fried chicken served in a sizzling cast-iron skillet, which I guess is hard to find in Florence but nothing new for Americans. While it was good, the desserts blew me away. The orange cake is a light meringue which is something I normally wouldn't be in to for dessert, but it was so good and light which was perfect after the heavy chicken. It is served with raspberries which were so much sweeter than they are in the states. The red house wine was one of my favorites as well. The hospitality at Trattoria Stostanza is out of this world and is something we still talk about. The waiters try to make it a fun experience and go above and beyond to make sure we were comfortable. Rubbing our shoulders, and talking really, really close to our faces, they check in often. I will say, it was a little weird at the moment but has since turned into a great funny story. Having good intentions, I appreciate them more now as I continuously receive horrible service in the states. As we were leaving, the man at the register remembered our names from the reservation and personally thanked us for visiting. It felt nice. (No website, call +39 055 212691 for reservation)
7. Coffe and pastry at Ditta Artigianale (Via dei Neri, #30-32/R). Ditta Artigianale has really good hot coffee but is not for everyone. They definitely cater to a younger hipster client with (dare I say it) pumpkin spice lattes, avocado toast and eggs, and 90's hip hop blasting. While Italy is known for its coffee, it has been hard for me to find iced coffee that is not a shakerato, and coffee to go. Ditta Artigianale has both! Getting up early to hit the town to see as much as possible, I often want to walk and drink my coffee in the morning (Americans-always on the go!) but the Italian way is to walk up to the counter and down an espresso (or two!) so when I found Ditta Artigianale, I was very excited. They have very good coffee that they source and roast themselves; with lots of variety like flat white, pour-over, and matcha lattes, and there is usually a line. They serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner and offer cocktails in the PM. If you don't want to be seated and wait, you can grab a croissant or pastry. If you are into the Italian version of a Starbucks in Brooklyn, then this is the place for you to try. They also have a second location near the Pitti Palace. https://www.dittaartigianale.it/
8. Pear and Asparagus Ravioli at Trattoria 4 Leoni (Via De Vellutini #1/R). Located in the working-class neighborhood Santo Spirito in the Oltrarno, Trattoria 4 Leoni serves typical Tuscan cuisine based on what is available for the season. Tucked away in a quiet corner, 4 Leoni offers charm and atmosphere, a modern restaurant with a hometown feel and al fresco dining; is well worth the discovery. It's a short walk from the Ponte Vecchio, very near Pitti Palace. My favorite menu item was the pear ravioli in cheese and asparagus sauce, which I wanted to try because I had never heard of pear stuffed pasta before and it was worth it. Since my first visit in 2014, I have only seen it since on one other menu. I like the originality of the menu items like lemon gnocchi, tagliatelle with wild boar sauce, and insalata 4 Leoni made with rucola, emmenthal cheese, avocado, and a pesto of pine nuts. I also recommend the blackberry cheesecake. The menu is not available in English so do your research online first or trust your waiter to recommend something for you. It is fun to try new food and something unexpected. Ask for something that is in season and you can't go wrong. https://4leoni.it
9. Lamperdotto at Trattoria Sabatino (Via Pisana, #2/R). Tucked away in the San Frediano neighborhood just past a medieval wall that used to mark the city limit of Florence, Trattoria Sabatino is a time warp and has been in business since 1956. We decided to explore neighborhoods beyond the city center so this could be a bit of a trek depending upon where you are staying but was a great way to see parts of the city that are more working class. The food is traditional no-frills hearty Tuscan food, filling and homemade. Anthony Bourdain even dined here when he visited the city in 2018 (you can see his picture at the register). The customers dining here are probably the same locals and students day-to-day due to the rock bottom prices so if you are on a budget, you can leave with a full stomach for a good price. They do tend to turn the tables over quickly, so you may be rushed depending on the crowd but hey, you should be exploring this beautiful city anyway and Americans are use to eating quickly so it's more on par with an American dining experience time-wise and maybe just fast for Italian standards. The menu is typed each day and I had wanted to try more traditional food on this particular visit so I ordered pasta, white beans, and lamperdotto. Lamperdotto is only for the adventurous eater but hey, if you are going to try it, it should be a place that has been making it forever! The staff is very friendly and will translate the menu if needed. Dine here for a rustic authentic checkered tablecloth experience. https://www.trattoriasabatino.it/ (Reservations by telephone for parties of 4 or more, call +39 055 225955)
10. A quick snack at Cafe dell battistero (Via de' Martelli, #3). Located within view of the Duomo, I had a good experience at Cafe dell battistero. I tend to stay away from anywhere near the Duomo since most are overpriced tourist traps. I first tried a place that will remain unnamed directly on the corner across from Cafe dell battistero due to being limited on time and frankly, getting hangry (hungry and angry). After waiting 20 minutes, I could not get any service even after waving down the waitstaff and making direct eye contact. I tried going inside for help and was ignored so I left. Since Cafe dell battistero was the next place I passed, I stopped in. They were super friendly and explained that they will bring our order out to us. Two cappuccinos, and two croissants for 8 Euro total. The cappuccino was surprisingly one of the best I have ever had and the croissants were perfect. We were in and out within fifteen minutes. I've read other reviews that the staff is rude to Americans but that was not my experience. I tried to speak Italian when I could and I think that helped. I'm not sure I would have a full meal here, but for a quick stop, it was worth it. For the price, quality, and service I received, I will go back. (No website, walk-up service)
Comments
Post a Comment